Champagne Jacques Lassaigne – Montgueux
Just south of Troyes, in the south of the Champagne, the Lassaigne farms vines on the Montgeux hill. The hill was nicknamed “Montrachet de Champagne” back in the day, a reference to its predilection for great Chardonnay. The vineyard is 4,7 hectare with great southeastern exposure. There is mostly Chardonnay and a tiny portion of Pinot Noir (0,3ha) for the Rosé. The terroir is mainly limestone and makes great blanc de blancs. Emmanuel is Jacque’s son and he runs the vineyard since 1999 and is responsible for the individual parcel approach, more like Burgundy in philosophy and very unusual in Champagne. The whole vineyard is farmed Organically. Wine is fermented on indigenous yeasts, he adds a tiny bit of sulfur during pressing to prevent oxidation and never after this stage. He is also one of the few to still do the disgorgement à la volée: he disgorges every single bottle hand, whereas the norm is to use a machine. He had even developped a very singular method so that he does not even need to top up the bottles afterwords!
Champagne – “Les Vignes de Montgueux” Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
Vineyard: 7 to 9 parcels on Montgueux’s hill
Grape variety: 35 years old Chardonnay
Terroir: Limestone and heavy clay
Winemaking: Hand harvested by parcel and by hand, pressed using an old coquard vertical press, long fermentation on the lees. Aged in new and old barrels for 12 to 24 months. It is further aged 1 to 5 years in bottle before it is disgorged. This is an assemblage of two consecutive years.
Offering up a lively bouquet of green apples, freshly baked bread, white peach and pastry cream, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and racy, with a lively spine of acidity, lovely purity and a long, searingly chalky finish. Lassaigne characterizes this as his "apéro" cuvée—modestly, as this makes for a decidedly serious apéritif.
This is a natural wine without added yeasts and with very little, or no added sulphites. This leads to wines with great purity of fruit but might also lead to more outspoken aromas. Beware that this style might be different from what you are used to when drinking conventional wines.
||Les Vignes de Montgueux Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
||France | Champagne |
|Robert Parker (92/100)
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|21% (€ 10.45) via Vleck Wijnen.